CHLOÉ SUMMER 2027: AN AFFAIR WITH OBSESSION

There is something revealing about the things a designer keeps returning to. For Chloé Summer 2027, Chemena Kamali follows those attachments into a wardrobe where delicate embroidery meets protective outerwear, and lingerie finds its place alongside tailoring.

Called “Obsession,” the collection feels like a personal reading of the house’s history. The youthful dresses of Chloé’s early years inform broderie anglaise worked across airy organza and substantial cotton. Three-dimensional floral embroidery brings texture and a touch of exuberance, balancing intricate workmanship with an easy, youthful spirit.

Much of the silhouette begins at the neckline. Heart-shaped, bateau, square and plunging V cuts frame the body, giving the romantic fabrics a clear sense of structure. That precision becomes more pronounced in outerwear: fishermen’s coats, capes and sou’wester hats introduce a practical, almost windswept character. Smoky transparent vinyl adds a sharper surface, allowing the layers beneath to remain visible.

The archival 1972 “Noel” suit offers another way into Chloé’s femininity. Its scalloped tuxedo edges carry the same decorative impulse as the dresses, translated into the language of menswear. Here, tailoring belongs naturally within the house’s romantic vocabulary.

The lingerie pieces are more intimate. Lace is cut away and reconfigured into delicate harnesses, leaving graphic lines that trace the body. Their spareness gives the collection’s richer embroideries room to breathe.

Kamali’s strongest idea is the friction between these elements: fragile fabric and weatherproof surfaces, floral embellishment and precise tailoring. Summer 2027 finds its character in those encounters, revealing how much there is still to explore in the clothes and the feelings a designer loves.